Window installation

Discussion in 'Downeast Boat General Discussion' started by Raider Ronnie, Sep 13, 2019 at 8:17 AM.

  1. Raider Ronnie

    Raider Ronnie Captain

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    33 Flowers. 28 BHM for sale
    The 33 Flowers has all Wynne windows & they are all large (30x30) (3 windshields, 3 each side, 3 winterback)
    I really like the large size (visibility) but it appears it made it challenging installations as not all wall surfaces are perfectly flat.
    I removed all but 4 windows for the purpose of re-finishing gelcoat to windshield and winterback and the fact I could see there were so leak issues as evidence of the previous owners love of clear silicone
    Gelcoat been done for weeks and I did have to do some delamination repairs to liver corners of front windshields.
    All windows were thoroughly cleaned up, all silicone removed and been “massaging” the fit of each window,1 at a time with a rubber mallet.
    For installation, each window I tape off each window opening and tape window frame edge, sand gelcoat at mating surfaces of opening and back side or window, wash both with acetone, apply a liberal bead of white LifeCaulk, set window and let excess squeeze out, replace the inner frames with the screws tightened down snug, acid brush off excess while using brush, peal tape, and a very minimal amount of clean up with a rag wet with prep-sol.
    So my questions (2)

    Is “Massaging” these Wynne windows with a rubber mallet (or other soft object as to not damage common practice to get a perfect fit, the frame to the openings edge ?

    Adhesives
    Is clear silicone typically used to set them or as I used (White LifeCaulk) a sealer that’s more of an adhesive ?

    Attaching a few pictures to show my installations compared to a few windows I didn’t remove (they will come out over the winter)
    If you look close, the windows I didn’t remove, some corners are about 1/4 inch filled with silicone because fit sucks.
     

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  2. Keelboater

    Keelboater Captain

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    I can't speak for others, but when I fit my new Wynne windows after doing a house modification, I made sure that they sat completely flat. I took off the high spots or built up the low spots on the house, but I did not touch the window frames. I used the foam gasket method for sealing. They don't leak so far, but time out in the weather will be the big test. I can replace the foam gasket very easily if it fails, and maybe then try a different method. I'm planning ahead for a color change on hull and deck and want the windows out when the time comes, so I liked the idea of the foam gasket option. I don't think I would mess with the frames too much because they also provide a seal with the glass. Maybe give Wynne a call to ask them what is practical. There is probably a happy medium.
     
  3. Genius

    Genius Captain

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    White Butyl tape worked for me when rebedding windows on a previous boat. Way less messy than caulk and you don't have to worry about time and the caulk skimming over.

    Lifecaulk and silicone are also fine IMO. Silicone is pretty messy when used on a large project. It seems to end up everywhere.
     
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  4. Toolate

    Toolate Captain

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    I used butyl and it never cured (as designed) and the black was always looking rough so personally would vote for a foam gasket or an exterior grade caulk. If the flange overlaps the fiberglass by 1/2 or so then a light bead of caulk would be best- something that can be cleaned using a solvent that doesnt dissolve your paint too.
     
  5. Bill

    Bill Administrator

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    Ronnie I used butyl tape with mine, the flange barely fit the cut out and I think it’s prob like that for a lot of boats .the stainless screws aren’t my favorite that they sent I got stainless self taping ones that I could crank down on and neoprene backed washers to slow corrosion between window and screw. I think that’s a captain Larry trick RIP.. bolt depot has them pic for reference
     

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  6. leaky

    leaky Captain

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    Provided all you are sealing is the window to the house, ie water can't creep into an exposed core or something if they leak, the stupid simple thing is put whatever color 100% silicone you like in there, clean it up nice after seating the windows, and call it a day. The stuff will seal just fine for a long time and worst scenario some years later if somehow it leaks around the frame, pull the windows back out and repeat since silicone is easy to remove down the road.

    Jon
     
  7. Lion's Paw

    Lion's Paw Senior Member

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    I did what Keelboater did installing my Bomon windows. On the test fit noted the high and mostly the low spots and traced out the frame outlines onto the boat, then mixed up some very thick epoxy and built the areas up. A lot of filling and fairing, but the final fit was very good and I used foam tape to make the seal. It has lasted long time and it was easy to remove a frame for glass replacement when one got broken. Very little clean up of the opening and back in with fresh foam tape.
     
  8. ThePartsGuy

    ThePartsGuy Senior Member

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    Silicone is susceptible to UV degradation. Boat Life LifeCaulk seems to be the most popular in our yard.
     
  9. jsakovits

    jsakovits Captain

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    my understanding is that the windows are typically set in butyl tape and then to keep the tape from bulging out a bead of caulk is applied around the edge. I did not think silicone was a good product to use given difficulty to remove.
     

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